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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, situated high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.